Here you can find information regarding the assembly of the Dodge 1.4L DOHC engine. In this guide we will
start from the inside of the engine including the
crankshaft, connecting rods, and piston ring installation and then move outwards all the way to the pulley belt
system. Along the way correct procedures and torque specs
will be given to aid in the assembly of the engine. Feel free to start from the beggining and work your way
outwards or skip ahead to your current position in the engine for what you may need.
Crankshaft Main Caps Installation
The 1.4L engine block main bearing caps should be inspected for any defects or flaws before installation.
Be sure to lubricate the bearing surfaces prior to installation. Once prepared you can place the lower engine crankcase onto the rest
of the engine block. Be sure that it seats properly so that none of the bearings shift or the crank doesnt get scuffed or scratched.
Once in place go ahead and hand tighten all of the lower crankcase bolts down to ensure it does not move further. After all of them have been hand tightened
go ahead and begin to torque each bolt down to 15 ft-lbs by going in a cross pattern starting from the middle bolts and working outwards. Once each bolt
has been tightened down to 15 ft-lbs you can then tighten them each down an additional 80 degree turn. Make sure to tighten each bolt during
each step as this is a critical part of the engine and needs to be properly done otherwise engine failure will occur.
Dodge Dart 1.4L Main Cap Bolts Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs + 80°
Piston and Connecting Rod Installation
To install the pistons and connecting rods you must first install the piston rings into each piston. Be careful
not to stretch the rings or break them during installation. Make sure to put the correct rings in the correct
positions, this can be determined by looking at
the instructions given with the new rings. Each ring manufacturer is different so be sure to check for your
specific rings. Once the rings have been installed you can now fit the connecting rod bearings into the end caps
and lube them up with oil or lithium grease. The piston can now be lowered into the cylinder, make sure the dot
or mark is facing the front of the engine and that you don't scratch the cylinder.
Once installed you can match the connecting rod caps with the correct rods and start to torque the connecting
rod bolts to 10 ft-lbs and then to 15 ft-lbs followed by an additional 40 degree turn for each bolt. After all are done rotate the crank
to ensure all pistons move smoothly in and out of their cylinders and nothing binds.
When installing the oil pump be sure to use the proper sealant around the pump base if neccessary to ensure that oil pressure
doesn't drop due to leakage. Both surfaces should be cleaned and preped prior to installing. After preparing the contact surfaces carefully
install the oil pump onto the engine and torque down the pump mounting bolts to 8 ft-lbs. Once installed you
can then install the oil pump pickup tube which will reach down into the engine oil pan. This can also be torqued down to
8 ft-lbs.
The first thing you must do when installing cylinder heads is to ensure both the block and head surfaces are
completely clean from dust, oil, and any debris. The next thing you must to is
to set the camshafts to their correct positions to prevent any valves from hitting pistons during installation
and torquing of the head bolts. Much the same you have to set the pistons to their correct
locations, typically this means putting the #1 piston to TDC or Top Dead Center. Once everything is ready you
can install the head gasket onto the engine block by aligning the alignment dowels.
Something I usually do is spray down the head gasket with some engine copper spray from permatex which you can
find here, this ensures that any gaps that could be present between the 2 surfaces gets filled with the
spray. It
also helps to transfer heat between the 2 metals. With the gasket in place you can set the cylinder head onto
the gasket and block, if needed have someone assist with this process as the head can be heavy
and you don't want to scratch anything or drop it! Once the head has been set in place you will want to start
installing the head bolts to make sure it doesn't move. Be sure to buy new head bolts as many manufacturers
use TTY or Torque to Yield head bolts meaning they stretch during torqueing and cannot be used twice. Also make
sure to lubricate the bolts in clean engine oil before installing them into the head. On Dodge DOHC engines there is occasionally
bolt holes on the engine block that cross into water passages. Any hole that does this should be installed with some silicon sealant.
A little goes a long way in this step and you can check holes by shining a flashlight down them and looking in the water jackets.
Once all the head bolts have been installed and finger tightened you can start the torqueing process, almost all
head bolts have a multi-step process for torqueing. The 1.4L DOHC engine uses a single size of cylinder head bolts with a total of
10 bolts being installed into the cylinder head. These head bolts should be tightened down to 22 ft-lbs and then 2 sets of 90 degree
turns which total for 180 additional degrees. Make sure
to now overturn or underturn any bolt as this can cause an unbalance of surface pressure between the gasket and head.
On the Dodge 1.4 DOHC engine the timing system is ran by the use of a timing belt. This belt system consists of a sprocket on the end of a camshaft along
with a tensioner sprocket, the water pump, and the crankshaft sprocket. To install the timing system on this engine you must start with installing the camshafts into the cylinder head and then the camshaft
sprocket onto the camshaft themselves. The camshafts are held down using several bearing caps which need to be in order with the arrows facing the front of
the engine. The camshaft bearing caps can be torqued down to 8 ft-lbs. Once installed you can move to install
the camshaft sprocket. The sprocket bolt get tightened down to 89 ft-lbs. With the camshafts and their sprocket installed we can then install the remainder
of the sprockets. Starting with the tensioner sprocket make sure to tighten it down to 21 ft-lbs. Next the water pump can be installed using some silicon sealant
and a new gasket. Tighten down the water pump bolts to 8 ft-lbs. Be sure to follow your sealants instructions when doing so. Lastly you need to install and torque down
the crankshaft sprocket. This bolt will need to be tightened down to 15 ft-lbs plus an additional 110 degree turn. After all of the sprockets have been installed
we can then install the timing belt by using a special tool which will hold the crankshaft in place along with the camshaft to ensure that the timing belt is
installed when the engine is timed correctly. As a secondary option there may be marks located on your timing sprockets and the engine cases behind them. If
so simply align the marks together on each sprocket and then install the timing belt. Once the belt is in place you may release the tension and the belt should
be held in place. Next we can move to installing the timing cover.
Dodge Dart 1.4L Crankshaft Position Sensor Torque Spec: 8 ft-lbs
Timing Cover Installation
The timing cover on the 1.4L engine is important because it protects the timing belt from wearing out and from collecting debris. However unlike
other engines this timing cover does not hold engine oil from leaking out. For this reason silicon sealant is not recommended but you still want to
ensure that you get a good seal to avoid dust and other particles from entering. With that in mind the timing cover on this engine uses 2 different sized bolts.
The small bolts can be tightened down to 8 ft-lbs while the larger of the bolts can be tightened down to 18 ft-lbs.
Much like the timing cover on the 1.4L the oil pan plays an important role in keeping the engine oil inside the
engine. For this reason I recommend using a new gasket as well as some silicone sealant
during installation. Using the same technique as before with the cover you clean the surfaces of both the oil
pan and the engine block and then install the new gasket onto the block and then follow
it up with some silicone sealant. Be sure to follow your sealants instructions to ensure you get the best seal
from your application. The oil pan bolts can be torqued down to 8 ft-lbs for the bolts by following a cross pattern.
Along with the pan is the oil pan drain plug, this gets removed and reinstalled quite frequently and can be
torqued down to 20 ft-lbs.
The valve cover installation is rather simple, there are rubber seals for each bolt hole and a silicone gasket
that prevents oil from leaking out of the engine. It is recommended to replace both the seals
and the gaskets although if they are in good condition you can reuse them. If you do choose to reuse them I
would use some silicone sealant along with the silicon gasket to ensure it does not leak.
The valve cover bolts torque down to 106 in-lbs or about 8 ft-lbs in a criss cross order. Be sure not to miss
any bolts to avoid having oil leak out onto the exhaust pipes and cause a lot of smoking.
When installing the intake manifold you want to make sure you have all the surfaces as well as intake holes
cleaned out before placing the manifold into position. Once cleaned you can then place
the intake manifold gaskets onto the alignment pins. If you want you can also use a little bit of sealant on the
gaskets to help ensure there are no leaks. With the gaskets in place you can now put
the manifold down onto the gaskets and begin to install the bolts. The intake manifold bolts torque to 11 ft-lbs
and can be tightened in a cross pattern. The ignition coil assembly can be torque down to 8 ft-lbs and the spark plugs themselves can be
torqued down to 14 ft-lbs, be careful not to overtorque these as they can snap and cause big problems.
When installing the throttle body make sure that all of the gaskets are in good condition and will hold a seal as you do not
want to be leaking gas fumes around the engine. If everything looks good you can tighten the throttle body bolts down to 8 ft-lbs.
Dodge Dart 1.4L Throttle Body Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs
Exhaust Manifold and Turbocharger Installation
The exhaust manifold can be installed by cleaning the surface areas on both the head an the manifold itself and
then by using the exhaust manifold gasket and putting it in place. Once the gasket is in its
location you can put the manifold onto the head and begin to torque them down to 25 ft-lbs. I always use some
copper spray from permatex on the exhaust manifold gaskets to ensure I do not end up with
any exhaust leaks once done. Once the exhaust manifold and turbo assembly has been installed and torqued onto the cylinder head we then need to begin
installing the various hoses and attachments that make the turbo system operate. Starting with the oil supply tube which needs to be tightened down to
22 ft-lbs. Next we need to install the oil return line which needs to be tightened down to 28 ft-lbs. After the oil lines we can install the coolant
supply and return lines which tighten down to 8 ft-lbs for the supply and 28 ft-lbs for the return line. Make sure that the turbocharger support bracket
has been installed prior to installing the remainder of the exhaust system. The turbo support bracket gets tightened down to 18 ft-lbs. The remainder of the exhaust
system connects to the turbo assembly using a giant clamp which needs to be tightened down to 25 ft-lbs.
Dodge Dart 1.4L Turbo to Exhaust System Torque Specs : 25 ft-lbs
Water Pump and Thermostat Installation
The water pump on the Dodge 1.4L engine gets tightened down to the engine block on the serpentine belt side and is ran off of the
timing belt. When removing the old water pump be sure that you drain out the coolant prior to removal otherwise the coolant will spill all over.
Once drained you can remove the water pump mounting bolts and remove the old pump from the vehicle. From here we can clean up the engine blocks
mating surface and prepare the new water pump for installation. Be sure to use a new gasket and some silicon sealant to ensure that no coolant
ends up leaking and causes further engine damage down the road. Once prepared you can install the pump onto the engine and hand tighten the bolts down.
Once all of the bolts have been installed you can then torque down the bolts to 8 ft-lbs. Make sure to follow your sealants instructions as they often
require you to wait an extended amount of time before torqueing down the bolts.
Dodge Dart 1.4L Water Pump to Block Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs
Front Dress and Pulley belt Installation
Most of what is left on the engine is just place and tighten objects such as the belt pulleys, belt tensioner,
throttle body, oil filter neck, crankshaft pulley, and motor mounts. If the items have a gasket and hold either
oil or coolant inside the engine then feel free to add some sealant along with the gasket. Always be sure to
inspect your gaskets and replace them if there is any deteriation or flaws with them. For the
belt system the crankshaft pulley gets tightened down to the crankshaft at 15 ft-lbs plus an additional 110 degree turn.
The drive belt tensioner can be tightened to 21 ft-lbs and the idler pulley can be torqued down to 16 ft-lbs. When installing be sure they
both turn smoothly and if they do not then replace them with new ones as the bearings can go bad. The engine
motor mount can be installed onto the engine block if it hasn't been already, the torques for
the mount to the block is 59 ft-lbs and then when installing the mount to the vehicle or frame it can be torqued to
35 ft-lbs. Finally the throttle body can be installed on top of the intake manifold
with a good gasket and some added sealant using 7 ft-lbs in a criss cross pattern. For installing the belt you
can use a tool to move the tensioner into its springed state and install the belt as shown in the
picture. The generator or alternator can be tightened down to the engine block using 17 ft-lbs of force.
The power steering pump can be installed and torqued down to 18 ft-lbs and finally the A/C compressor can be torqued down to
15 ft-lbs of force.
